{"id":36077,"date":"2019-11-13T18:37:25","date_gmt":"2019-11-13T17:37:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nationalwire.com.ng\/?p=36077"},"modified":"2019-11-15T21:28:08","modified_gmt":"2019-11-15T20:28:08","slug":"lagos-to-accra-by-road","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nationalwire.com.ng\/sub\/lagos-to-accra-by-road\/","title":{"rendered":"Lagos To Accra By Road"},"content":{"rendered":"

Traveling from Lagos to Accra, Ghana by air is approximately 75 minutes all things being equal. But traveling to Accra by road could be fun.<\/p>\n

So I decided to plan the journey by road to see the cities and towns along the route.<\/p>\n

Purpose of the journey was to attend the Litt Africa 2019 workshop in Accra. My senior colleague, Mr. Gbenga Osinaike who publishes Church Times Nigeria was on the journey and I particularly insisted we travel together.<\/p>\n

Three days before then I had gone on a fact finding mission to Iyana Ipaja where I learnt buses take off to Ghana and some west African countries.<\/p>\n

To plan effectively I wanted a Nigerian in Ghana to provide some logistics. My elder brother Pastor Tokunbo Emmanuel who is familiar with Ghana provided a contact. It was Pastor Elijah. A younger sister, Oluwatosin Moore is also based in Ghana so I combined logistics provided by the duo.<\/p>\n

Pastor Elijah earlier told me to go with GUO Motors at Iyana Ipaja according to him, they are reliable and professional.<\/p>\n

On getting to Iyana Ipaja, GUO was my favourite. After enquiring I found that I may not be able to make the journey with them not for the fare but for other logistics.<\/p>\n

They take off 6am whether the bus is full or not. I wonder if I could make the 6am deadline and more so my traveling partner who lives in Ota, Ogun State may not be able to make the 6am because of the usual terrible traffic caused by bad roads.<\/p>\n

An option was to pass the night at the GUO office to make the 6am departure time realistic. The sight of the office suggested one would have a bad night on the metal seat with giant rats and fat mosquitoes ready for night duty.<\/p>\n

Then I went to EFEX transport also at Iyana Ipaja. They take off 10am. I found a better alternative. Mr. Osinaike and I agreed to go with EFEX.<\/p>\n

On Sunday afternoon with the help of my wife I made a list of all I needed for the trip. A long list of about 30 items. She helped in packing and I had a smart bag with an extra luggage I was sent to deliver to Pastor Elijah in Ghana. The two things I forgot to add to the list were the things I forgot eventually. A sim card I had bought from Republic of Benin which I felt would be useful and a 500 Cedi note.<\/p>\n

Our meeting time was 8am at Iyana Ipaja. I got there earlier from Akowonjo but Mr. Osinaike coming from Ota arrived a bit later. There was no bus on ground and we were told not to worry as the bus was coming from Yaba. The journey didn\u2019t start until about noon and one of the loaders whispered \u2018this bus go reach Ghana for midnight.\u2019 I took him up.\u00a0 \u2018What did you say?\u2019 I queried. He said it is because of the borders. What about the borders? I asked further.\u00a0 \u2018Oga those people fit waste time o,\u2019 he answered. I didn\u2019t express my worry and we set out.<\/p>\n

A couple with their two young children sat at the rear of the Sienna bus. Mr. Osinaike, a lady and I were at the middle row while a Liberian lady was at the front with the driver.<\/p>\n

\"Parliamentary
*Parliamentary building in Porto Novo (Ajase) under construction for many years<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We left at about lunch time so the transport company was magnanimous enough to serve lunch without water. We couldn\u2019t eat the rice because it was poorly cooked. I managed to eat Mr. Osinaike\u2019s meat hoping to eat my own meat later on. By the time I opened my pack for the meat, I found how terrible it was. I quickly closed the pack. The sight alone was disgusting. Judging between the two transport companies I knew GUO was more professional, may be next time I would prefer it.<\/p>\n

I have been visiting Benin Republic since 2014 and I had had wonderful experiences but advancing to Ghana was going to be a new experience.<\/p>\n

The journey was smooth up to Owode in Ogun State though the bad roads were issues on their own. Then a policeman flagged us down. He asked for the journey\u2019s manifest but the driver refused to produce it. \u201cWhere is your manifest?\u201d he demanded. Drivers along that route must be bold to challenge policemen at each road block they found questionable.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe police shouldn\u2019t ask for my manifest,\u201d he answered and that angered the policeman who must have been in the hot sun for hours. \u201cThen I must search the bus,\u201d he threatened.<\/p>\n

\"Mr.
*Mr. Otufodunrin chairing a panel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

He attempted to look through few bags and after dragging forth and back, we were delayed for over 30 minutes. Then passengers began to query the policeman, before long he fizzled out without getting a dime from the driver.<\/p>\n

Next point was the Immigration, the rightful agency to demand the manifest. The driver settled with them and within five minutes we continued the journey dodging several pot holes. One would wonder what should be of more importance to the government between road blocks and massive craters on the road.<\/p>\n

Drivers on that route like our own driver always make available bunches of N200 notes in their vehicles for \u2018road clearing\u2019 which to me is an aberration.<\/p>\n

Before long we were at Idiroko border. The transport company has an agent waiting who collected the travel documents and did whatever they do and we moved into the Republic of Benin.<\/p>\n

Driving from Igolo, the first Bennenoir town to Porto Novo, a town the Yorubas also call Ajase was smooth. One main feature to tell any traveler the vehicle has left Nigeria is the stretch of good roads and swarms of motorcycles some of which are operated by women.<\/p>\n

We left Porto Novo, the political capital of Benin Republic for Cotonou, the commercial capital of the small West African country. Another striking feature is the neatness and orderliness in Benin Republic which has 17% Yorubas, the second largest ethnic group. We drove for over 90 minutes through Cotonou and saw no port hole, no refuse dump like we see regularly in Lagos since 2017.<\/p>\n

\"Zenith
*Zenith Bank Accra<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Later we arrived at the Togo border and the usual ritual was done at the immigration end by agents of the transport company. We moved into driving on good roads though not as good as Benin. Getting to Lome, the capital city, it was dark and we drove under street lights.<\/p>\n

Togo is a smaller country, not as developed as Benin but with perhaps more motorcycles.<\/p>\n

The canopy of darkness didn\u2019t allow us enjoy the sight of the Atlantic far away to our left as we moved through what would have been a beautiful scenery. I was hopeful on the return trip we would get to see Togo and the coconut trees lining the long beach line.<\/p>\n

Arriving Ghana at last by 9:07pm was another assurance. The bus loader had prophesied 12mid night arrival time. I told the driver we eventually made it before midnight and he smiled. \u201cWe are in Ghana but we have another four hours to travel to Accra,\u201d he explained. The news got me more tired.<\/p>\n

The Ghanaian officials at the point of entry were friendly. Three well-dressed officials including a lady were on ground to receive us warmly. We filled the immigration forms comfortably. They only harrased the couple with the little children.<\/p>\n

Their older daughter, about three years old had had an accident and got her left arm burnt with hot water. The wound already healed up but the scar was fresh. They asked where she was when the accident happened. It was as if they were going to get her arrested. She explained she was taking care of the second baby when the elder ran into the hot water basin.<\/p>\n

One of them carried the girl and cuddled her a while as if the accident had just happened. I was so impressed. Some other policemen would rather want to waste passengers\u2019 time in the bush under the hot sun without any pity even for the young Nigerians on board like we saw at Owode.<\/p>\n

We left the border post few minutes before 10pm to begin the four hours journey to Accra. Then the Ghanaian immigration officers at the various stops became hostile. At a point we were parked for one hour as they threatened to offload all the bus for a search. Money changed hands at different posts then the heavy rain started!<\/p>\n

We drove through the rain until we go to Accra around 2am. All passengers thanked God for the journey and one after the other we parted ways. We got a taxi to our destination; M Plaza Hotel at Roman Ridge, venue of the Litt Africa commencing just seven hours away. The driver was alarmed we were going to M Plaza hotel. He said that is where their President and football stars use. He pitied us the hotel is very expensive. Ghanaians know Nigerians are good spenders. We felt good and told him not to bother, that is where we wanted to sleep.<\/p>\n

Coming from Nigeria which is east of Ghana, we lost one hour and had to adjust our watches. Of course my body clock didn\u2019t adjust in time. It was a longer day, shorter night period in Ghana. Each day during my stay in Ghana by 6am the day was already bright and one would want to jump into the day but looking through the window from my second floor hotel room, the town would look so empty.<\/p>\n

\"Freedom
Freedom House, Accra is Ghanaian seat of power.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I had a good stay in Accra, the hotel was calm and Litt Africa allowed me to see the largest congregation of different Africans in a single hall. There were delegates from about 20 African countries in addition to delegates from The Philippines, Europe and the United States of America.<\/p>\n

I had opportunity to see a bit of Accra despite a tight workshop schedule. I went with my boss Mr. Lekan Otufodunrin to honour an invitation in town; one of his mentees at the Wole Soyinka Centre for Investigative Journalism, a Ghanaian was launching her pet project; the Ghana Press Club for secondary schools. We were at the event briefly.<\/p>\n

The Litt Africa event provided a lot of information on writing, editing and publishing. It was a great opportunity to learn. The last day of the workshop featured a colorful dinner. Delegates dressed in the traditional attires of their various countries and it was a wonderful sight to see attires from different African cultures.<\/p>

\r\n
Advertisement<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\r\n \r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n

Next day we had to leave for Nigeria again by road after breakfast. This time I had two companions as Mr. Bola Adewara, Publisher of ELife Magazine was to travel with us by road. Take-off point was the popular Kwame Nkrumah Circle.<\/p>\n

The journey didn\u2019t start until 10:04am and we drove through Accra in day light relishing the beautiful landscape. Accra is neat and the good road network depicts a modern African city. The driver had to apply breaks at some points to avoid arrest as he often went above speed limit. According to the Nigerian, he had to hurry up as we would not enter Nigeria if we don\u2019t get to the border before 6pm.<\/p>\n

Unlike the first lap of the trip, we went through Aflao border. The usual ritual was done and we were in Togo. This time we were in Togo during the day and we enjoyed the beautiful scenery especially of the Atlantic coast line. Togo is not as beautiful as Ghana and Benin Republic but the people are calm and orderly.<\/p>\n

\"With<\/p>\n

*With Mr. Justin, our host in Seme<\/em><\/p>\n

The former German colony was retrieved for France after the World War II and perhaps there might be some very old people who could stillspeak the German language which was the official language.<\/p>\n

Finally we arrived at Cotonou and the hectic traffic can only remind one of Lagos. Long line of trailers that could not enter Nigeria due to the recent border closure may be one of the reasons for the traffic.<\/p>\n

I slept off only to wake up as the driver parked the car. \u201cAre we at Idiroko?\u201d I asked. \u201cWhich Idiroko?\u201d the driver answered, announcing we are at Seme border. \u201cNa here we go sleep o, I tell una say border go close by 6pm. Anybody wen wan cross I fit assist you to cross into Nigeria and you find your way,\u201d he explained rudely.<\/p>\n

I was so angry not for the situation but for his rudeness. We had thought we were entering Nigeria through Idiiroko like we exited days before. It was about 8pm. The driver later explained that his company doesn\u2019t use Idiroko which he explained is a smuggling route and more dangerous.<\/p>\n

There was a lady on board with three young children then Mr. Adewara, Mr. Osinaike and I. Mr. Adewara, a former Daily Times Sub Editor reminded us what his boss in the early 90s used to tell him. \u201cWhen you can\u2019t help a situation, you find a way to enjoy it,\u201d he laughed, advising, \u201cPlease let\u2019s find somewhere to sleep o and more so me I want to take a bathe.\u201d<\/p>\n

We found a hotel but on serious inspection we discovered it was something like a brothel. The blue lights suggested it was more of a short time accommodation or better still a brothel. The beds are built into the wall with a mattress wrapped in dirty sheets. The rooms are en-suite; the toilet and bathroom in each room has no door. The only door is the room door.\u00a0 Each room has a ceiling fan and the taps were running.<\/p>\n

I have a residual knowledge of the French language and I asked what the rates are. He said N5,000 but later scaled down to N3,500. The man also understands some English words. I asked how he controls the mosquitoes, he said once we are ready he would spray the insecticide.<\/p>\n

We signaled to ourselves \u2018this is not it.\u2019 We left. On another thought, we enquired if there was a church around. It was Friday night when in Nigeria some churches would be at vigil. We enquired around, nobody could give a concrete answer. Of course Nigeria is more religious while Benin is largely known for Voodoo worship. Then it is obvious churches may be far away in the town.<\/p>\n

Still wondering around to find our way back to the border area, we saw an inscription \u2018Jesus Is Lord\u2019 on a building. We stopped to ask if it was a church so we could pass the night. It was an office. We were told they hold fellowship and prayer gatherings there once a week for the workers. We explained we were returning to Nigeria from Ghana and we needed a place to just pass the night. It was already about 11pm but the border area was still bubbling.<\/p>\n

The gentle man we asked said we could pass the night. His boss also came around to assist. We told him we are three brothers and there is a lady with three young children as well still in the bus. He said we should bring her and the children. The lady and the children had the privilege to stay in the inner room where there was a comfortable bed while we men stayed in the open front office. Those interested in using the bathroom enjoyed their shower. We were given a mat and the air conditioner was on. It was just divine providence as we heard the border area is a no man\u2019s land and that crime was a regular occurrence.<\/p>\n

Some drivers told us earlier how Bennenoir police killed eight armed robbers at the border a week earlier as they tried to loot stranded trailers in the night. Several stories of incidences were told and we just had to pick our laptops as we went to sleep in the God provided accommodation.<\/p>\n

Others were fast asleep but I was still skeptical and trying to know what type of business our hosts are involved in. Border towns are known for unscrupulous businesses. The manager was watching the news on a French channel and I followed keenly. Later on we got talking and I stylishly questioned what they do in their office.<\/p>\n

Mr. Justin took his time to explain the business.\u00a0 \u201cIt is a Bureau de change where travelers transact business in the tune of millions of Naira and other currencies,\u2019 he explained. I was a bit relieved. On the other hand wondering how many millions could be in the hefty bullet proof safes in the office and how safe the place could be at night since they are in possession of large sums of cash.<\/p>\n

In the course of our discussion, I found out that the man was a cook at the Doddan Barracks in Obalende Lagos during the General Babangida era. I was interested. He told me lots of stories about his job there. His direct boss was Air Vice Marshal Ibrahim Alfa now retired.<\/p>\n

He narrated how he left Nigeria after the June 12 troubles. After leaving Nigeria he had worked as a Chef on a ship, he was also in South Africa and later went to work in Germany. Many stories.<\/p>\n

At about 1am, the light went off. He ordered his office assistant to put on the generator because of us. He said power cut is strange in Benin and at day break people would troop to the office of the service provider to ask questions on why they broke the agreement. He said power must not blink and it was so strange to him. He said within few minutes it would be restored but the boy should put on the generator and get more fuel for the night.<\/p>\n

I was so impressed. Before the office assistant could get to the gate on his way to get more fuel, the light came back on! He said \u201cI said it, they must bring it back fast but by day break they must explain,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

The border opens 6am and we were on time. There was no issue from the Benin end. We were cleared to enter Nigeria. But trouble started at the Nigerian end where there were four different groups of officials the driver had to battle for passage; the Nigerian police, Immigration, DSS, NDLEA. One would wonder why such duplication of roles.<\/p>\n

Even the blind would know we were back to Nigeria. The bad roads were obvious; several check points and a lot of uniformed men littered the pot hole riddled roads.<\/p>\n

Traveling all the way from Ghana on good roads well lined, with road signs only to get to Nigeria and drive through craters, refuse dumps is something that can only berate the so called giant of Africa.<\/p>\n

\"\"
*A portion of Lagos-Badagry express way<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At some point we had to query an immigration officer. \u201cWhy do you people make traveling a hell for travelers?\u201d We queried. We told him how smooth our journey had been from Ghana, why is Nigeria like this? He started explaining. \u201cIt is from the top. All those officials you are seeing are from different places. There is the Abuja group, Task force, State, etc,\u201d he explained as he walked away not so happy with the situation.<\/p>\n

From Seme border post to Gbaji bridge towards Badagry I counted 22 check points where the driver had to part with some N200 notes. Of course he escaped a few of the roadblocks in a James Bond-like maneuvering where officials had to hit the vehicle with clubs.<\/p>\n

There were two strange happenings along the Seme-Badagry check point infested stretch. The first was around 8:15am when the driver had exhausted his N200 notes. He gave the policeman a N500 note and demanded his N300 balance which he parked to collect before the journey resumed. I found it so funny and appalling at the same time.<\/p>\n

The other funny experience happened when a policeman stopped us at his own \u2018shop\u2019 I mean the check point in his care. He walked round the vehicle sniffing with his \u2018spiritual\u2019 nose only to declare us clean. The driver as usual wanted him to come to his side to receive the N200 but after walking round he said, \u201cYou can go. If you carry contraband I would see it,\u201d what a spiritual policeman! He didn\u2019t demand or collect a dime.<\/p>\n

We left Seme border post at 6am and by 8:30am I counted 26 check points and the figure stood that way till we got to Badagry. The situation is saddening and the Federal Government must as a matter of urgency find a lasting solution. This is not done in other countries visited, why must we always be the laughing stock?<\/p>\n

Recently the Minister of Works, Mr. Babatunde Fashola said Nigerian roads are not as bad as being portrayed but the snail speed at which road constructions are done in Nigeria and the quality of such roads leaving them with short lifespan are nothing to desire. This is the bitter truth.<\/p>\n

Along the Seme-Badagry road we saw some constructions which are not exciting. The Ilorin-Ibadan highway has been under construction since Obasanjo years and only God knows when it would be completed just like the Lagos-Ibadan express way which has been under construction since Jonathan days. What a country!<\/p>\n

I would suggest the Honourable Minister takes his time to travel by road from Kano to Lagos then to Port Harcourt and back to Lagos. He should then travel to Accra by road to compare the quality of roads in the three West African countries with what he has in Nigeria.<\/p>\n

Mr. Fashola should specifically drive from Seme to Mile 2 and if after his journey he is not as angry as I am, then I would know there is no hope for Nigeria.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Traveling from Lagos to Accra, Ghana by air is approximately 75 minutes all things being equal. But traveling to Accra by road could be fun. So I decided to plan the journey by road to see the cities and towns along the route. 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